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Life As We Don’t Know it

” Jab ghar pe koi nai hota … toh Fashion TV bhi dekh leta hoon” …  said Ved Prakash, our 45 year old guide as we finished our final safari in Ranthambore. A month and a half later, it still brings a smile on my face. Life in these jungle towns has always left me wondrous of the dichotomy that India lives in. Inspired even ! For Ved Prakash, as a resident of Ranthambore, his life would make a documentary for sure.

penultimatefullsizerenderMarried as a boy, ( yes traditions like these in India still exist), Ved finally brought home his wife in his teens in a  ceremony he explains was his second marriage to the same girl 🙂 He had to assume responsibility as the head of the family after he lost his father but also his married elder brother at a young age. An MSc in Botany, Ved took up teaching in the nearby school. His earnings were not enough obviously with so many mouths to fill, and at the instance of a forest officer Ved decided to quit his job and become a guide. However, things weren’t as easy, as due to some nexus or the other, people lesser educated than him made the cut of guides that year. Not one to give up, Ved took his case to the authorities and eventually got the whole list scrapped. That year, for the first time in many, EDUCATION became the prime criteria to get a job as a guide ! ( Would you believe that! ) Ved, as expected, made the cut and thanks to his knowledge of Science quickly became the sought after guides for professional photographers. But, that is Ved’s story.

My story is about the emergence of a younger India in the digital era … the saga of Ved therefore  continues…. Ved and his wife were blessed with 2 kids. A Girl and a Boy.  A progressive man, the first thing that Ved has NOT  done is marry off his daughter at a young age. A better thing that he did was to educate her. She has completed her course in teaching and now is all set to be a teacher in the much larger city of Kota… She will be married off in a couple of years and most probably to someone from the city.  And what that means is that  her offspring in a few years will have access to everything that we are accustomed to… Mobiles, malls, internet, everything.

Its fascinating, think about it, a man who in his 20’s lived in the outskirts of a jungle, by the time he is 50, will play with his grand children in a city and communicate with them on WhatsApp etc. It’s a great story for Modern India. A story wherd8baa3e6-37cc-4b90-a91e-6a53a5774a23e people with no contact with the outside world till a few years ago now have access to  everything that the average city dweller has.

In moments of melancholy, I wonder if converting small villages or hutments  into modern day towns will kill the innocence and purity that lay in these beautiful settlements. India is changing, and the change is very different than the ones we in cities are accustomed to. Change that will transform the way people live and the manner in which they behave with others .. the rate of this transformation is like a time lapse video.. One day nothing & the next day everything.

In Ved’s case change was not only about watching Fashion TV through cable, it also means getting to live in a connected world that he never knew existed till a few years ago !

India Is Incredible ! Live it .. Love it… Be Fascinated ! 

 

 

 

 

 

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India Jumgle Photography Safari trees Vacation

The Legend of Babloo

Mayur , Daksh and I hi fived as we took our seats in the train on our way back. It was yet another successful safari trip. After all we managed to sight a few elusive birds, gleefully snapped away as a pack of wild dogs ripped apart a Sambhar deer, and we had 3 gorgeous sightings of the tiger.

One involved our guide and driver combo of Babloo and Ashish skillfully maneuvering our car so that we could see the tiger jump. The other was when Babloo correctly predicted a spot where no one went to see the tiger and gave us an exclusive sighting, and the third… Ooh that beauty of a beast, that third sighting, which actually was the first one we saw, was sheer masterclass in guidemanship from Babloo. Yea, there is no such word as guidemanship. But, that is the only word that can describe those 5 minutes. . And this post is just about that 5 minutes of brilliance.

The area we were roaming in belonged to a tiger called Prince. Now , Prince loves this small little Water hole where he comes to relax every morning. Curiously that day he decided not to make an appearance. Cars that were lined up for the spectacle gave up one by one. Babloo on the other hand decided to apply science at that moment. He asked his able companion Ashish to drive up to a canal 300 meters away. You see Babloo was convinced that the huge Prince had made the small gutter situated right below the road his home. He took pains to explain to us that Prince’s non appearance was because he was having a longer than usual siesta below the road.

Incredulous that theory! 40 cars are allowed per safari. In anticipation, 40 cars went up and down the road 3 times. How possibly could a tiger sleep peacefully we asked right below that road in all the chaos above? How could he sleep as the noise of the cars created a ruckus right over where he slept? This had to be another conspiracy theory from just another guide.

This brings me to the topic of guides. Anybody who has been on a safari will know the behaviour of a typical Indian guide. A typical specimen strides confidently into your jeep. The first 5 minutes he talks purposefully about the jungle and how he will show you your tigers in that safari. The next 30 minutes this specimen fafs gloriously about his wondrous sightings at points located every 5 minutes that the jeep traverses. Every 10 minutes the Royal specimen suddenly without warning stands tall on the seat of the jeep and asks you to be quiet as he listens to all the sounds that the Jungle throws at you. The next 30 mins you see his voice quality waning. The word LUCK starts to recur in his sentences. And after that, it’s just downhill. The transformation is astounding. It’s like Theon Greyjoy miraculously transforms to Reek. And before you know it , the specimen hops off the jeep without pleasantries. Shoulders dropped, arrogance gone, and no eye contact.

 

Babloo , however was not like that. The confidence in his science of tiger behavioural patterns unwavering. And as we stood there atop the small canal, Babloo had nothing in his mind but how to get Prince out for a sighting.

The tension was palpable. His confidence of the Tiger presence was supreme. He was edgy, and one could see a thousand ideas run through his brain. He thought of picking a rock but decided against it. And just then a foul smell pervaded the surrounding. Babloo was convinced it was Prince. For the record, in the 20 sightings I have had, I have never ever had a smell theory dished out by a guide. This is was beyond ridiculous now. Imagine, a tiger giving a foul odour. If that were true, the odour would have been enough to scare every potential prey away. Unconvinced, I refused to even touch my camera. Just then, Daksh, sitting on the back seat thought something crept beneath him and before we could realize it, the mighty Prince had made an appearance. So close, that Daksh later told us that his hands were shaking for the next 30 minutes.In 5 minutes Babloo had turned everything we had learned about Tiger behaviour upside down. Unwittingly, in 5 mins , Babloo had turned the mighty Neanderthalisque specimen of a guide into a science genius.So close, that my 300mm prime lens refused to focus on the majestic beast.. And when it did, all it got was its head.

Prince
Prince
Babloo .. The Legend

But But, Babloo as we were to learn later is way beyond a normal guide. His relationship with fellow guides and drivers is one of teacher and student. His pleasant demeanor means that he usually gets more leeway than others with government officials. He hosts guests for dinner. He took us to his home at 4 30 am for a cup of tea before the safari began … And he is special because in that tiny little town, the man with a large heart actually dreams BIG. Next to his modest home, Babloo is constructing a small homestay. He has thought of everything… A.C., Dinner under the stars on the roof, and rugged Indian styled furniture. It did eventually dawn on us that Babloo was a genius in the making…. An example that good guys do finish first.

Ace Driver Ashish

Heartily wish the man the best … And if you do decide to visit Pench in Maharashtra look no further than to employ the services of Jitendra Gupta… Yea that’s his name.

While this post was about Babloo, it cannot be complete without his partner in crime Ashish. Ashish wields the jeep like no one else. He consistently gave us the best seats in the house for viewing amongst the plethora of cars. His skills in tiger movement matched Babloo’s and apparently they are the Jai -Veeru Jodi of Pench. Understated, he hardly smiles. Speaks when spoken to. But he drives like a maniac with the single minded passion of showing you the Tiger.

Drivers and guides are the unsung heroes of Indian safaris. Their lives revolve around tiger sightings. They hardly sleep at night … And are required to be at their best as they take patrons out every day.. Twice a day. They also are the torch bearers of hospitality. Often their behavior decides if you will visit the jungle again. Most fail the task, and then there is the Legend of Babloo.

As always we thank Wildnest for another wonderful trip. Do contact them for their rides. Check them out on http:/www.wildnest.in

 

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India inspiration lake life lifestyle Nature Photography Photography Road Trip Safari trees Uncategorized Vacation

In search of the perfect vacation?

Many in Mumbai find it hard to have 1 decent vacation a year. My kind boss allowed me not 1 but 2 five day breaks within a month ! The first was an all boys out Safari to Pench.  5 AM safaris, dusty roads, vodka and bollywood evenings and some great bonding in the jungle meant that the boys really did have all the fun. The second was a nice little family vacation in Poovar & Kumarakom in Kerala. The highlight – our first vacation with our Jackal with killsometimes devil , almost always angel little daughter – Mysha. This one was all about running behind Mysha for her feed, her taking to the pool like a fish to water, long boat rides, running behind Mysha for her feed ,multiple car journeys, screaming on top of our voices like children,  running behind Mysha for her feed  ( yea we did that a lot …).

The Fab 4 @ Pench I had great company in both, fab service levels in the hotels that we stayed in and met hospitable people wherever I went. There were goof ups in both the places too – Missing tiger sighting, small skirmishes with guides,  running behind Mysha for her feed – ( Oh, did I cover that already ! ). But, as  I look back at these mini vacations , I think I have learnt a very important lesson. The first one is obvious – never let out your preference about 2 diametrically opposite trips in public – hehe.

The second one is vacations are all about moments. Little ones. Big ones. The first Tiger sighting on a trip, the bonding over a masala David Dhawan film, your baby’s first outing in a swimming pool, her not letting her parents go out of sight even for a moment in 5 days, her crying papa- papa as you approach the window of your cottage, the family sitting quietly in a boat mysha 1not talking a word but being the perfect family in that moment. Someone once told me I visualise in pictures and images… But when I reminisce about these 10 days, its not a set of pictures but a beautiful movie montage playing out against some terrific slow music. It’s this montage which keeps playing in my mind that makes it oh so perfect.

As we all go back to our daily chores for the next 6 months or so before the next 10 day break, I thank my wife Sunita, our little angel Mysha, My best pal Mayur, Daksh, Suraj and all the people I met for this perfect 10 day vacation – The montage wouldn’t have been possible without you folks 🙂

 

 

 

 

 

 

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birding India Nature Photography Uncategorized

Tadoba Diary: Jungle Raaj

4 am starts. 5 am line up. 6 am checkin to office. 10 am checkout. 2 pm line up again.  7 hr drives on rocky roads. Imagine a life where every strategy starts with Telia and ends with well Paazahar. What’s that you say ?

It begins with a Promise and a Sunrise

For most safari and wildlife tourists or enthusiasts the few days they spend in the jungle are a bliss. 4 am mornings are supposed to refresh you. The sight of dawn in the jungle just revs up your brain with a plethora of ideas. Sightings of the Tiger and Birds of prey literally send a thousand tingling sensations to your brain. Like a recent ad goes: ALIVE IS AWESOME. Indeed.